An Elegant Taste of Burgundy
Posted on January 29,2018 By John Compisi
An Elegant Taste of Burgundy
Okay, I’m a California Pinot Noir lover but when it comes to vin de Bourgogne, I admit I am a rookie. However, a recent trip to the Côte d’Or has begun to change that. We arrived in Puligny-Montrachet in mid-September right at the beginning of harvest. We had made a room reservation at La Maison d’Olivier LeFlaive ( based upon some very good Trip Advisor reviews and a recommendation from a wine writer friend in San Francisco. Little did we know what a unique adventure was about to unfold. The Olivier LeFlaive Experience!!
Monsieur Olivier LeFlaive with ‘Grandma’ (L.Compisi)
The LeFlaive family has been known for grape growing and wine making in the Côte de Beaune, the southern part of the Côte d’Or, since the 1700s. In the past century that continuity has been associated with Domaine LeFlaive which had been managed by Vincent and Jo LeFlaive, the sons of Joseph LeFlaive, who died in 1953. When Vincent died in 1982, Olivier LeFlaive (Joseph’s son) and his younger cousin Jean-Claude LeFlaive (Vincent’s daughter) took over the operation. Domaine Leflaive is a winery in Puligny-Montrachet, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. The domaine is very highly regarded for its white wines, and its vineyard holdings include 5.1 hectares (13 acres) of Grand Cru vineyards.
Harvest in Puligny-Montrachet (L.Compisi)
Wishing to expand and experiment, M. LeFlaive struck out on his own leaving Jean-Claude to manage the Domain. M. LeFlaive established his Olivier LeFlaive winery with the financial assistance of his customers who appreciated the quality of wine that he made and loaned him the money to purchase the grapes.
One of the several Grand Cru wines (L.Compisi)
Building on his background, he began purchasing grapes from around the Côte de Beaune from the neighboring vineyards and vigneron he knew so well. With his continuing success, his production has grown from a few thousand bottles to the 800,000 bottles he produces today. 80% are White Burgundy (Chardonnay for us rookies) and 20% Red Burgundy (Pinot Noir). Olivier says, “I am retired now but we do not want to increase beyond the 800,000 as we can continue to manage as a small family operated business”. It is exciting to note that they will be releasing their fist Champagne in 2017.
Three of nine wines we tasted at pairing (L.Compisi)
LeFlaive is passionate about wine but insists that it is to be enjoyed with food, so early on he began serving his wines for friends, clients and visitors with food. He did this at his family home on the square in Puligny-Montrachet, where the winery is also located.
LeFlaive family home on Place du Monument (L.Compisi)
It wasn’t many years later that M. LeFlaive realized it wasn’t safe for people to drive anywhere after the tasting. Always creating and experimenting, he purchased a neglected 17th Century village house, also on the square, and developed La Maison d’Olivier LeFlaive.
Tasting bar and dining room, La Table (L.Compisi)
The Maison has 24 unique and very well appointed rooms as well as a dining room and tasting bar. La Table, the dining room, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and also offers food and wine pairings with a choice of wither 6 or 9 wines. The operation of La Maison remains in the family with Olivier’s daughter Julie providing flawless leadership. The food and wine are quite exquisite.
We loved our ‘Pop’ decorated room (L.Compisi)
To make the ‘Olivier LeFlaive Experience’ complete M. LeFlaive and his co-owner brother, Patrick LeFlaive offer comprehensive and good humored vineyard and winery tours, all within walking distance of the Maison. Quoting M. P. LeFlaive, the brothers follow two principles: ‘Protect the Terroir’ and ‘Take Your Time’. One percent improvement here and there will add up to an exceptional wine and an exceptional experience. Today, over 10,000 visitors from the USA, the UK and Japan, among many other countries, enjoy the tours and tastings each year. Truly elegant and delightful.
Patrick LeFlaive poses with ‘Grandma’ (L.Compisi)
Charming Charles (Charlemagne) guides vineyard tour (L.Compisi)
Puligny-Montrachet is very well located as a point of departure to Chablis and the other wonderful appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) of Burgundy. It is also just a few miles from the historic and beautiful medieval town of Beaune, a great place to spend at least half a day or more.
The fascinating Hospices de Beaune (L.Compisi)
If you are considering traveling to Burgundy, I would recommend a visit during September and especially to La Maison D’Olivier LeFlaive in Puligny-Montrachet in the Côte de Beaune, where you will personally have the ‘Olivier LeFlaive Experience’. You will not forget it!
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