Mighty Five Plus One – Part IV: Utah’s Canyonlands National Park
Posted on November 3,2019 By John Compisi
This is Part IV of our series on the Mighty Five National Parks in Utah. The ‘Plus One’ is Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. On the first of September we launched our thirteen-day adventure into Southern Utah. As previously reported, we flew into Las Vegas from Northern California, picked up our rental car and drove a few hours to Zion National Park, followed by Capitol Reef and Arches National Parks.
Part IV will record our adventures during our one-day visit to the Island-in-the-Sky section of Canyonlands, which became a National Park in September 1964. Today, Canyonlands with The Maze, The Needles and Island in the Sky remains the 23rd largest of the U.S. National Parks with nearly 340,000 acres. The three sections are separated by the Green and Colorado Rivers. Clearly, this park could provide adventures (both hiking and boating for months on end).
The drive from Moab to the Canyonlands Island in the Sky Visitors Center was about 32 miles and took nearly an hour. The topography was so different as you gained nearly 2,000′ in altitude from Moab rising up to nearly 6,000′ at the Mesa which is Island in the Sky. After our typical brief stop at the visitor center we plotted a series of hikes that could provide about 6 miles.
The Visitor Center, as usual, was our first stop where we received advice based upon our objectives and time available. We selected Upheaval Dome, Mesa Arch, Grandview Point and the White Rim Overlook Trails. Mostly easy to moderate but offering spectacular views of the valleys, basins and canyons below. Unlike previous parks where our focus was mostly up, our experience at Island in the Sky was definitively downward looking.
The scenic 22-mile drive connecting the various trail heads was the least scenic of all the parks, so far, because you are looking off into the distance, being an island in the sky. None-the-less, the trails and overlooks available from this scenic drive are totally worth the visit.
In a hurry to get started, we jumped back into the car and headed to our first stop. Mesa Arch turn out is about 6 miles from the Visitor’s Center and we where there within 10 minutes. The easy walk to the Arch was short, a bit more than the .25 mile the park guide shows. Using our GPS watch, we calculated the easy walk about .8 miles round trip. Although it is a sunrise setting the Arch was spectacular even during the late morning we were there. The view through the Arch to the Canyons below was stomach dropping and eye popping! Because it is a short walk there where a lot of people on the trail even now, the ninth of September.
From the Mesa Arch, we drove about 5 miles out to the Upheaval Dome. This ~1-mile walk (r/t) had a bit of an elevation gain immediately from the parking area, which is why it was considered Moderate in terms of difficulty. The rock stairs were nicely done. There are a couple geologist theories on the origin of the Upheaval but the current leader is that it is the result of a meteor impact. Regardless, the views from the First Overlook were stunning and so worth the short but exhilarating walk.
Next on our agenda was the Grandview Point Trail. We motored the 11-mile scenic drive to the parking area for the Grandview Point Overlook Trail. There are parts of this trail that are not for the weak-kneed. The two mile out and back trail offers amazing panoramic views that are worthy of your time and effort. Mostly flat with some stone stairways, you should not miss this trail. You can walk as close to you dare to the precipitous ledges overlooking the mini grand canyons below.
Our final excursion was the White Rim Overlook Trail. Another ‘easy’ nearly two-mile round trip with delightful rock formations including the moon-like surfaces that appear pock marked from centuries of pooling water. The views down into Monument Basin and the Colorado River as well as across to the La Sal Mountains are memorable.
We can only imagine how different The Needles and The Maze sections of Canyonlands are but time and distance prevented us from venturing there during this brief visit to Canyonlands. Island in the Sky, however, is adequate reason alone to venture to this one-of-a-kind National Park.
Tips: We were there during the second week in September so the crowds and temperatures were bearable. (~85° – 90°F). Always carry lots of water, wear a hat and use sunscreen. In general, an SUV offers easier driving access to some trail heads.
What to do: Always take the scenic drives first if practical. Gives you a real sense of what is available and how much time you should allow for each activity. Hike!
Where to Stay: As reported in Part III, there is no lodging in the Park but the nearby town of Moab has plenty. Homewood Suites by Hilton was new and spacious. It’s located in the heart of Moab, which allowed for walkability, if desired.
Where to dine:
We enjoyed a lunch at Sweet Cravings on the Arches side of town. Great, made to order, sandwiches but they also offer breakfast and an exceptional grab and go menu. Ate left overs for dinner.
We had dinner at the Sunset Grill, formerly the home of Uranium mining magnate Charlie Steen, who made millions in the 50’s providing Uranium for the various U.S, nuclear programs.
Where to obtain Adult Beverages: Moab has an ABC store but you can also obtain beer and wine and spirits as indicated below.
City Market Moab is located on 425 S Main St, (currently a subsidiary of Kroger’s) and has a full wine and beer listing (no spirits).
The Moab Brewery Right in town (686 S. Main Street), nine beers on tap, burgers, steaks, Mexican, pasta, seafood, vegetarian, salads and gluten friendly options. They also sell Spirits from sister distillery Moab Distillery which is located next door.
Next up, Bryce Canyon National Park and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument!
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