Rochioli Vineyards: Icon without Ego

Posted on   September 5,2020   By John Compisi

Rochioli Vineyards and Winery is an iconic label without an ego. Most of us have heard of wineries and vintners with years long waiting lists and allocations. Rochioli has these but it is not a tool for marketing. It just is.

Rochioli Vineyards is located on the former Fenton Acres along the Russian River, rural Healdsburg. Joe Rochioli Sr, had been farming this land for about 17 years when he got the opportunity to purchase it. Several years later, at the urging of Joe Jr., they planted the first grapes on this highly regarded plot of land which had been dedicated to hops, prunes and string beans. They chose a little planted white grape called Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes from these vines are still harvested today and still make compose the Estate Sauvignon Blanc. Since the late 1960s, Rochioli has become best known for the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir they grew. But it wasn’t until in the early 1980s that they established their own wine label, the Rochioli Vineyards brand and began commercially producing their own wines.

In mid-August 2020 we ventured back to Rochioli to see what was happening. We hadn’t been there for nearly 20 years. Not because we didn’t love and respect the brand, but because when we were there last, we loved the wines but they had nothing to sell us…they were sold out. That remains the case for many of their select varietals and vintages as much of their wine is reserved for wine club members.

Today, Tom Rochioli, Joe Jr’s. son and the 3^rd generation of Rochioli grower/wine maker, produces between 10 thousand and 12 thousand cases per vintage depending the weather and other factors. He could practically double his bottlings but he doesn’t. They sell about 55% of their harvest to other luxury brands because, per Tom, “10-12k cases is what I am comfortable with.” The estate sits on 162 acres with 140 planted to, principally, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

We made a reservation, a requirement at Rochioli for decades and pre-COVID, to enjoy a tasting. The $25/ person charge was quite moderate considering the situation in Sonoma County and the ‘COVID effect”. At that, the $25 was refunded if you bought 2 bottles of wine. We though, 2… can we get 12?

Our tasting began with a chilled glass of the sparkling 2016 Blanc de Noir. It was crisp, delicious with distinct aromas of strawberry and red apple. At $64 per bottle it is in the medium price range for a quality sparkling wine and we got two. No more tasting fee for me.

The sparkling was followed by the 2019 Estate Sauv Blanc ($34 per bottle). The grapes are the Rochioli Clone, so designated by the scientists at UC Davis a few decades ago. This Sauvignon Blanc was less crisp and citrusy than many we have tasted but is was nicely structured and will certainly pair well with food.

Next, we were into the heart of Rochioli: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The 2018 Estate Chardonnay has notes of ripe apple and a crisp acidity on the finish. The exceptional minerality made for sipping but truly a food wine at its heart. Think seafood and shell fish. Again, not over priced at $58 per bottle. We bought two so deduct another tasting fee.

We finished our flight with the 2018 Estate Pinot Noir. The $64 dollar price tag was well within the moderate range for top quality Russian River Pinot Noir. Exceptionally elegant and well balanced this very palate friendly Pinot had ripe cherry aromas and hints of vanilla. Yummy!

Each of these 4 wines had a purchase limit of twelve bottles except for the Pinot which had a limit of six. The 2019 Rosé was sold out!

The outdoor seating area was well shaded (a necessity on this 98°F day) and overlooked the vineyards. The COVID defined tasting service was delightful and elegant enough to befit this renowned jewel of an iconic vineyard and winery.

Do not hesitate to make a reservation as Rochioli Vineyards & Winery during COVID or later. In either case you will not be disappointed.