Flights and Bites of the Shenandoah Valley – Part I

Posted on   December 20,2020   By John Compisi

We recently completed a delicious 3-day/2-night visit to Amador County. This Sierra Foothills County has 2 major sub-appellations, the largest is Shenandoah Valley (which extends into part of El Dorado County) and the other is the higher elevation, Fiddletown, both close to the small, quaint city of Plymouth. Plymouth is only about 40 miles east of Sacramento, 100 miles east of San Francisco and 115 miles from our new home base in Truckee.

This is our third visit to the region in the past five years and it is fair to say that the grapes and the wines continue to evolve upward on the scale of sophistication, structure, nuance and yum factor! The appellation has over 3,700 planted acres, 40 plus wineries and ranges from 1,200-2,000 feet in elevation. In order to respect your time, we have separated this story into two parts – one for each full day of tasting and dining. This Part I.

One of the exciting facts about Amador County is that the wine history, and some of the vines, stretch back to the post Gold Rush Era in the late 1870s. The terroir (soil composition, climate, sun exposure) are very favorable to California’s iconic Zinfandel, some classic Italian varietals like Barbera and Sangiovese and also French varieties like Grenache and other Rhône varieties. Of course, they also product Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and others classic Bordeaux, Burgundy and some Spanish wines.

Considering this was November during the ‘Rona’ most of the wineries we visited with a couple friends required reservations and all tasting was properly socially distanced and outside. The air was a bit chilly but we were all prepared with our cool weather clothing and gloves. None of these factors diminished our fun in getting outdoors and tasting excellent wines from this special place. NOTE: Since our visit, the State of California has shut down virtually every tasting room, restaurant or other social gathering outlet. Curbside delivery for wineries and take out for restaurants may be available. As always, check websites or call to be sure.

Our two full days of tasting focused in the Shenandoah Valley sub-appellation. We started Day 1 with a return visit to Scott Harvey Wines. Scott’s wines are critically acclaimed and widely awarded. He is credited with placing Amador County firmly on the California wine map. His early training in Germany and winemaking at Santino, Renwood, and, in 1996, Harvey was recruited as Partner, Winemaker & President for newly purchased, Folie a Deux Winery in Napa Valley. He combined forces with Lead Partner, renowned Winemaker, Richard Peterson, Ph.D., a formidable winemaker of note. Harvey developed the “Menage a Trois” line of wines which became a huge commercial success. Scott’s wife Jana is the perfect partner and they started their own winery in 2004 outside Plymouth.

We tasted through (outside tasting only of course) numerous wines including the 2019 Rosé of Barbera, the 2017 J&S Reserve Zinfandel, the 2017 Mountain Selection Zinfandel, the 2017 Mountain Selection Barbera and the 2017J&S Reserve Barbera among others. All of these wines were highly palatable and reflected exceptional fruit and winemaking. All palates are different but our favorites were the 2017 Old Vine Reserve Zinfandel and the 2017 J&S Reserve Barbera, both of Amador County. These wines offered delicious fruit flavors representative of the varietal as well as sophisticated layers and balance. Reservations required and $10 tasting fee waived with wine purchase. They are also offering virtual wine tasting experiences.

After Scott Harvey we ventured to Andis Wines for our first time. Founded by husband-and-wife team Andrew Friedlander (a former U.S. Marine) and Janis Akuna (a Certified Financial Planner) in 2010. Friedlander and Akuna were longtime residents of Hawaii until they sampled the wines of the Sierra Foothills and decided to begin phase 2 of their lives by founding Andis. Their goal is to bring a modern and fresh approach to Amador County’s winemaking. They have quickly collected numerous 90+ point scores from Wine Spectator and others as well as placements in some of the finest restaurants.

We enjoyed a flight of four wines (for a $10 tasting fee which was waived with the purchase of a bottle of wine) outside on their slightly elevated patio overlooking their vineyards. Each wine was unique and enjoyable. We tasted the 2019 Estate Barbera Rosé, the 2018 Painted Fields Old Vine Zinfandel, the 2017 Barbera D’Amador and the 2018 Cabernet Franc (High Elevation). Unanimously, the four of us thought the 2018 Painted Fields Old Vine Zinfandel was exceptional and quite noteworthy. We took one to dinner the next night and it was even better with food. Reservations are required!

Our last winery of the day was a longtime favorite, Vino Noceto. Owners Suzy and Jim Gullett purchased the original 21-acre property in 1984 and added the neighboring 18.5 acres in 1987. After studying their terroir, they decided that Sangiovese was the right grape for their vineyards. Of the 8,000 cases produced, about 5,000 cases are Sangiovese.

Vino Noceto is well known for their good cheer and ‘nutty’ wine clubs. Reservations are not required as they have a significant amount of outside seating. Guided tastings are $5/person on weekends and even that is waived with the purchase of wine. The staff is very welcoming and the outside setting allowed for comfortable distancing.

We had a special tasting flight so I cannot report what the normal tasting includes but, again, they are very accommodating so ask your tasting guide upon arrival. Our host, Rhys Tappero, a certified wine educator, was exceptionally knowledgeable and took great care of us. Among the wines we tasted and thoroughly enjoyed were the AX-1 2013 Sangiovese, the 2017 Marmellata Sangiovese, the 2017 Riserva Sangiovese, the 2017 Noceto Sangiovese, the 2016 Linsteadt Barbera and, finally, the 2007 Colheita Port. Each of the ‘Sangio’ were distinct and offered variations on the typical Sangiovese characteristics, allowing each individual’s palate to find one they would love!  We walked away with bottles of the AX-1 Sangiovese, Marmellata Sangiovese and the Colheita Port!

Dining options in Plymouth are fairly limited. For lunch we exploited the Italian Market and Bistro at Villa Toscano, which is located very close to most of the wineries we visited on day one. Open 11am – 4:30pm daily (see note above re: COVID restrictions), the Bistro offers salads, pizzas, burgers, other delicious sandwiches and non-alcoholic beverages, Of course, the Villa wines are available for purchase by the bottle to enjoy along with your food.

We had a ‘bring-it-back-to-your-room’ dinner this first night from Taste a-go-go, the mobile kitchen operated by the chef and management of Taste Restaurant. Open daily from 12-6:30pm, this is an excellent lunch or dinner option, especially considering these ‘Rona’ times. The servings are large (consider sharing) and the ‘tastes’ are delightful. This mobile kitchen offers upscale fare including cheese plates, salads, burgers, gourmet fries, pastas and sandwiches to name a few.

We stay at Rest, a boutique hotel with 16 rooms, when we visit Plymouth and the Shenandoah Valley of Amador County. Rest offers very nice accommodations at a fair price, for a boutique hotel in the middle of wine country. Amenities have been scaled back but the staff certainly does their best to make your stay comfortable and memorable.

Check back for Part II where we experience three additional wineries and enjoy dinner at Taste, an upscale restaurant owned and operated by the same people who operate Rest.

Hope you enjoy!