Moraga Bel Air: A Gentleman’s Endeavor
Posted on November 30,2023 By John and Linda Compisi
On a recent trip to Los Angeles, we were privileged to attend a wine tasting at Moraga Bel Air Winery. Interestingly, this winery and vineyard is located in the Santa Monica Mountains in a quiet Bel Air neighborhood, surrounded by lovely homes. Upon our arrival, we were guided to park on the street. Our hosts, Winemaker and General Manager, Paul Warson and Estate Manager, Philip Cavanaugh greeted us and we entered the stone-wall protected property through a massive private gate.
Passing through the gate, we left the neighborhood and were welcomed by a bucolic scene including a guest house, barn, chickens and vineyards climbing up the mountain behind which and obscured is the estate residence at the top. The effect of exiting suburbia and arriving on a rural scene was not lost on us.
We were welcomed into a rustic tasting room with a beautiful long tasting table and large windows looking out at the vines. Our hosts, Paul and Philip, introduced themselves in more detail and in turn provided the history of the property which began as a horse farm and estate residence for the first owners, a famous Hollywood director and his wife. They maintained the property through the 1930s and 40s and it was ultimately acquired by the former CEO of Northrup Corporation and his wife in 1959.
After 20 years, they planted the first sustainable vines in 1984 with all red Bordeaux wine grapes (after a failed attempt to grow Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc) and made wine just for friends, family and business associates. It was truly a hobby vineyard, a ‘gentleman’s endeavor’. It wasn’t until 1989 that the first commercially wines were made (in Santa Barbara) and released. Subsequently, around 1995, they tore out some of the red vines and replanted Sauvignon Blanc to become a Bordeaux focused vineyard producing both red and white Bordeaux wines. By 2005, the owners had built a large cave for barrel aging and a state-of-the-art winery.
In 2013, the property sold to Rupert Murdoch with the promise that the property would not be developed and maintain its vineyard estate character for at least 10 years. Murdoch’s son, Lachlan, has agreed to maintain that preservation agreement into the future. The Murdoch’s are committed to have Moraga get a place at the table with the best wines of Napa and Bordeaux.
The property is 16.5 acres with 7.25 acres planted to approximately 40% Sauvignon Blanc and 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Warson told us that the 2023 harvest was late due to springtime rains and cold, and was just beginning in the second week of October, about a month later than usual.
Warson and Cavanaugh proceeded to guide us through an amazing tasting. We began with the 2013 and 2019 White Bordeaux which are 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Each vintage, even after 10 and 4 years of aging, respectively, was fresh and crisp. The 2019, not surprisingly, had a bit more acid with a crisp finish. Both were nicely layered with noteworthy aromatics. They were both aged in 18-20% new French oak. Warson told us that a major difference was the relatively cool 2013 growing season versus the warmer 2019 season. The current release White Bordeaux, 2020, sells for $92.
Our guided tasting then moved to the 2002, 2007 and 2017 Red Bordeaux blends. Surprisingly, despite the age differences, these wines had similar flavor profiles and maintained robust tannins. The 2002 still retained a good deal of tannin and was still quite lively. The 2007 Red Bordeaux poured beautifully and remained very balanced with solid fruit flavors and smooth tannin. The 2017 was a bit “tight” but did open up and revealed its richness and full flavors. The current release, 2019, sells for $140.
In a typical vintage Moraga Bel Air produces 300 cases of their White Bordeaux and 400-500 cases of the Red Bordeaux.
At the completion of our exceptional tasting, we were treated to a tour of the winery and the cave. The winery is small and compact but has everything needed to produce world-class wines. The cave, on the same level of the winery, holds hundreds of cases of wine, many from the 90’s to the current vintages.
Moraga Bel Air wines are a true luxury brand and are only sold direct to consumer. The wine club, called the Ceilo Club offers several benefits including a case of white and a case of red, a 3 pack of Library wines and a magnum of red spread out through the year at 15% discount. Additionally, members (plus 3 guests) are invited to a variety of vineyard and winery focused lunches, dinners and release parties. Onsite tastings are by appointment only and are $150.00 per person, for 1-12 people per group.
With its proximity to Los Angeles (35 minutes from either downtown or LAX) and The Getty (7 minutes), Moraga Bel Air is a unique and surprising adventure for anyone wanting to have the ultimate LA Experience. We were fortunate to be hosted for this experience and would encourage those seeking world class Bordeaux wines, in the least expected location, to give Moraga Bel Air a try.
To make an appointment just email from their website.