Raging Rosé – The Wines of Summer Celebrated
Posted on June 26,2019 By John Compisi
On a recent 90 degree plus day, in the vineyards surrounding Healdsburg, California a group of appreciative aficionados gathered to Experience Rosé! The event, named ‘The Great Rosé Infusion of Summer’, was a celebration premised on the belief that every day pairs better with Rosé. Based upon the response from the couple hundred participants attending the Grand Tasting, the founders of this fairly new wine event were spot-on.
Craig Palmer and Allen Habel, San Francisco based Co-Founders, wanted their new event to engage their guests in exceptional and entertaining pairing experiences, not “just another pouring”. Originally inspired by Chef Lars Kronmark, seen at events all over the North Coast Wine Country and Senior Chef instructor at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, the event has been held at Copia in Napa, Jaxon Keys Winery in Mendocino and the past two years at Soda Rock Winery, one of Ken and Diane Wilson’s properties around Sonoma and Mendocino Counties.
Only in its fourth year, the founders have been able to illustrate rosé’s delightful ability to magically add color to food, fun and festivities year-round by inspired programs. They would be the first to tell you that they are not the only brains behind their success. Energized and provocative insights are offered by gifted participants Thomas DeBiase, Direct to Consumer/ Director of Operations at Idlewild Wines and Chef Marc-Henri Jean-Baptiste, Charcutier/Co-owner at Maison Porcella.
DeBiase, a passionate Italian wine connoisseur, has instigated a monthly ‘Sunday School’ at his home base, Idlewild Wines, with his friend and Idlewild winemaker/owner Sam Bilbro. The first Sunday of every month sees a unique an, perhaps, rare Italian varietal being featured with curated cheeses/small plates to accompany these wines. Truly worth regular visits but seating is limited so purchase your tickets early.
Chef Marc-Henri Jean-Baptiste’s fine handmade pâtés, rillettes, ham and head cheese are hand crafted for all clients in search of authentic European tasting products. Every product we tasted was crafted using traditional French techniques and added nuance and intrigue to the wines paired with them. Jean-Baptiste was trained at the New England Culinary Institute with on the job training in Paris, Monaco and New York City, Marc-Henri also produces special plates for Idlewild’s occasional Friday Night Pop-Up events in Healdsburg.
The event began with a seated VIP curated tasting moderated by Thomas with food pairings by Chef Mar-Henri. The featured wines were from Runquist, Moshin and Calstar wineries with the winemakers, Jeff Runquist, Rick Moshin and Rick Davis, respectively, on the podium telling the stories of their wines.
In the case of Jeff Runquist Wines, this was his very first Rosé in over 30 years of winemaking. He used Sangiovese grapes and it was delicious! Crisp, refreshing and inviting the next sip. This was a 2018 vintage so keep an eye out for next year.
Rick Moshin presented his 2018 Russian River Rosé of Pinot Noir. Moshin Vineyards is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year an Moshin has always produced a Rosé. He described the ‘free-run’ capturing of the Pinot Noir juice from the picker’s bins as the basis of his Rosé, thereby not losing his pricier Pinot Noir production. He only captures about 5 gallons of juice per ton picked.
Rick Davis’ Calstar Cellars only produces about 1,200 cases of wine annually and a small bit of that, about 200 cases, becomes Rosé. Perhaps surprisingly, Davis uses Pinot Meunier, one of the three main varieties used in the production of Champagne (the others being Pinot Noir and Chardonnay). The 2018 presented by Davis was starkly different, unique fruit signature, from the other two.
In his introduction at the seated tasting, DeBiase asserted that Rosé has been produced for nearly 2,500 years with the Phoenicians bring the grapes from Greece to Southern France around present-day Marseille. These early Rosé wines were field blends of white and red grapes crushed together to produce the pleasingly pink ‘Rosé’. The British loved Claret was possibly made as a Rosé in the middle ages. In the 19th Century, these lighter chilled wines were perceived as a symbol of glamour, leisure, and summer. Today, that connection to summer time and leisure persists. Many sommeliers, however, are suggesting Rosé for its ability to pair beautifully with many foods.
The twenty-six (26) wines poured were all Gold Medal winners from the competition that was held in early May. The competition attracted nearly 400 national and international entries; a major achievement in such a limited single variety category. Included in the judging were dry and sparkling entries as well as some rosé-infused spirits, beers and ciders.
Besides the three wines poured inside, the highlights outside included beautiful, refreshing, crisp Rosé wines from some larger producers (Alexander Valley Vineyards, Balletto Vineyards) and many smaller boutique sized wineries like Tongue Dancer Wines, Drive, Lula Cellars, Fathers and Daughters Cellars, Trecini and Mutt Lynch Winery. It was very likely that you would find your new favorite among these highly refined and deliciously well-structured wines.
Although the dates and location for next years public tasting have not yet been announced, you can follow this writer on twitter, Facebook, Instagram or LinkedIn to stay informed and UpToDate!
About Soda Rock Winery: The property is a fabulous facility for many different indoor or outdoor events including more daily wine tasting, formal gala style celebrations or anything in between. It is one of numerous properties owned and operated by Ken Wilson and his winemaker wife Dianne, under the banner of Wilson Artisan Wines.