Discovering Mt Blanc: Switzerland, France and Italy
Posted on July 12,2019 By John Compisi
One of the most spectacular mountain areas in the world has to be the area surrounding Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco in Italian). From Chamonix in France to Courmayeur in the Valle de Aosta, Italy, it is a continuous series of oohs and aahs with glaciers, jagged peaks, history, wonderful cheeses, hiking, mountain biking, skiing, wine and food.
We used Geneva, Switzerland as our arrival and departure point when we traveled there a couple years ago because it is only an hour (82 km) from Chamonix and the Mont Blanc region of France. We stayed in Geneva for a couple of days to acclimate and get over our jet lag. A great decision!
Geneva is a fascinating, cosmopolitan city. The number of international organizations headquartered there is impressive with the likes of the International Red Cross, the United Nations Office at Geneva (UNOG), the European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN), the World Trade Organization (WTO), International Labor Organization (ILO), United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights (UNHCHR), United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) and the World Health Organization (WHO).
Additionally, about 250 non-governmental organizations (NGOs) have their seats in Geneva. These include the World Council of Churches, the Lutheran World Federation and many others. With delegates from over 165 countries residing here (or close by in France) the flavors of Geneva are, literally, all over the map. We took advantage of a local tour service to maximize our time which was also a good decision. The city is highly accessible and worthy of a visit in its own right. The dining opportunities included cuisine from all over the world and we were not disappointed. Italian and Swiss proved to be our favorites.
After our brief sojourn in Geneva we headed to the Mont Blanc region stopping in Chamonix for lunch. This famous French ski town is as beautiful as they come with a quaint chalet style town, the surrounding peaks and a sky full of dare devil para-gliders. There is also a Skyway that takes passenger from the valley floor up to the Glacier on the French side of Mont Blanc. A dramatic scene. Lunch and the local wine served us well and after a nice hike around the city we continued on our short journey (29 minutes/21km) through the nearly 12km long Mont Blanc Tunnel to Courmayeur, Italy. The tunnel was completed in 1965 and is an amazing engineering fete.
Courmayeur is located in Valle d’Aosta, a region of northwest Italy bordered by France and Switzerland. Lying in the Western Alps, it’s known for the iconic, snow-capped peaks the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and Gran Paradiso. Major ski resorts include Courmayeur and Cervinia. The region’s countryside is dotted with medieval castles and fortresses, such as the 14th-century Castello Fénis, Castello di Verrès and the Forti di Bard but skiing and hiking are clearly the main reason for visiting the area around Monte Bianco.
The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is the world famous 170 km trek that circles the entire Mont Blanc Massif. The trek attracts thousands of serious trekkers annually and can be accomplished as a guided tour with refugios and hotels arranged in advance by your tour guide or it can be a self-guided tour. The highest points on any treks various routes are the Col des Fours in France and the Fenêtre d’Arpette in Switzerland, both at an altitude of 2,665 m (8,743 ft). The hardiest will complete it as a backpacking adventure. We were fortunate to be able to day hike several of the trails that make up the TMB and visit Refugio Elena, one of the numerous restaurant/lodges along the TMB. Amazingly delightful.
A perfect way to experience the wonders of Mont Blanc is the Skyway Monte Bianco which starts in Courmayeur and takes riders to Pointe Helbronner (11,358’/3,462 m). During this spectacular, two station,16 minute journey, the cabin, which holds 80 people, makes one complete rotation, giving riders 360° views into the Aosta valley and along both Val Veny and Val Ferret (where our hotel was located). Once you are a Pointe Helbronner you can take an elevator down to the surface of the glacier and, at your own risk, hike for over a mile with more breathtaking views. Children and even less physically fit people can have this experience, and many did. On out return trip we disembarked at the mid station to explore the amazing botanical gardens and recreation area. Quite fascinating.
We were very fortunate to be in Courmayeur during the Tor des Géants (Tour of Giants), an annual 330 kilometer (205 miles) endurance trail race which takes place in the Aosta Valley, in September. This ‘amazing race, must be completed in less than 150 hours and the competitors (limited to 700 registered entrants) literally run day and night. With elevation changes from under 1,000 feet above sea level to 10,000 feet above sea level, the weather itself can be an obstacle with blazing sun, rain, wind and even snow (which happened this year). The completion rate is about 60%! Courmayeur is the start and finish and we just happened to be having lunch in Coyne, one of the 43 refreshment points along the route. which must be completed in less than 150 hours. This is not for the faint of heart! The winners the year we were there were both from Italy. Oliviero Bosatelli (just over 75 hours), was the first person to cross the finish line and Lisa Borsani (just over 91 hours and 7th place overall) was the first woman to finish.
Monte Bianco is a fabulous destination for outdoor activities year-round. Regardless of your fitness level there are so many things to see and do. If you haven’t been, recommend you put this breathtakingly beautiful destination on your bucket list.
Where to stay in Geneva: We stayed at the Ibis Styles hotel which was perfectly situated right next to a nice pedestrian area with numerous restaurants and just a few blocks from Lac Léman (commonly referred to as Lake Geneva). The rooms are small but elegantly simple and quite importantly in this very expensive city, relatively reasonable.
Where to stay in Courmayeur: We stayed above Courmayeur, Località Planpincieux, in a small family owned hotel called Locanda Belvedere. The family was quite hospitable and the breakfast was simple and satisfying. The views were stupendous and the rooms were simple bur more than adequate.
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